STYLING RICCARDO SLAVIK
MODELS MICHEAL @ 2MORROW, ADAM @ NOLOGO, LANCE @ INDEPENDENT, FALLOU @ I LOVE MODELS
“What Buffalo did was to try to create its own agenda outside the fashion system. We were interested in the images and the attitude. Yes, we loved the style and the fashion but that was just part of it. We would use an Armani jacket because we liked the cut, not because of the label. What Buffalo helped to create was a force outside the establishment.” Jaimie Morgan
Strange as it may seem, not everybody in the fashion world seems to remember or even know about Ray Petri, the man behind the ‘Buffalo’ look, the guy who basically invented ‘styling’ as we know it in the 80s. A lot of SS13 collections wouldn’t exist, and most of menswear as we know it would be fairly different if this quiet, creative genius hadn’t explored his style obsessions on such magazines as The Face and Arena. Using ethnic guys, mixing sportswear and high fashion, making the clothes less important than the story one is trying to tell, all these things are quite normal now, but were pretty much unheard-of then. More importantly the Buffalo crew was a close-knit little family of talented individuals with output ranging from mainstream pop & hip-hop ( Nick Kamen, Neneh Cherry) fashion photography ( Jaimie Morgan, Marc Lebon) video, advertising, photography ( Jean Baptiste Mondino), and obvioulsy styling ( Ray Petri, Mitzi Lorenz) .
‘People tend to associate the word Buffalo with Bob Marley’s ‘Buffalo Soldier’,’ Ray once explained, ‘but in fact it’s a Caribbean expression to describe people who are rude boys or rebels. Not necessarily tough, but hard style taken from the street… a functional and stylish look; non-fashion with a hard attitude.’
‘In the early 80s, fashion photography was still largely the preserve of the glossies, but at The Face and i-D , Ray’s vision coincided with the very beginning of what has subsequently become the commercialisation and mass consumption of street style. Petri played skilfully with the iconography and mythology of the heterosexual modern hero and the homo-erotic muse. He created new breeds of free-range urban cowboys in Ray-Ban aviators and hats; a suited and booted beauty accessorised by a feathered Native American headdress; a smiling black boxer with a blowsy red rose tucked behind his ear; boys in highly polished brogues worn with tracksuits; Crombie coats teamed with shorts; sportswear and couture; kilts and diamanté_ and the definitive Petri Buffalo garment, the no-nonsense Nylon MA1 army surplus flight jacket, lined in bright orange, teamed with Levi’s 501s: the look that evolved into the predominant urban male uniform of the 80s.’ Kathryn Flett
What we aimed to do in our exhibition ( currently on display at Blanco, Piazzale Lavater, Milano) was pay homage to a style and group of people who influenced us very strongly in our formative years, through photography, music, fashion. We put together our little ‘crew’ of friends and mixed some strong fashion images created with two very interesting new faces and SS13 collections from top designers, with portraits of models and real people styled in a mix-match of vintage and personal archive pieces. Much as a lot of what Buffalo represented has been by now absorbed into everyday fashion, referincing some of its key looks and images can still create a potent fascinating imagery.
MURDER! BUFFALO. A TRIBUTE is at BLANCO, Milano till April
LORENZO MARCUCCI: PHOTOGRAPHY
RICCARDO SLAVIK: STYLING AND CONCEPT
LORENZO LSP: ARCHIVE AND MUSIC
SS13 FASHION BY: MOSCHINO, VERSACE, DSQUARED2, COSTUME NATIONAL, FRANKIE MORELLO, Y3
STYLING ASSISTANT MY MISHA
GREAT THANX TO EVERYBODY FOR BEING GENEROUS WITH THEIR TALENTS AND THEIR TIME
‘ THE HARDER THEY COME. THE BETTER,” Ray Petri